Shifting Solutions

Knock out the 4 inch plug on lid if your pump has a center discharge pipe or an opening can be drilled anywhere you wish. For pedestal pumps, like that pictured at right, you can cut out the “U” shaped section on the top cover. Conventional sump pumps are simply placed on bottom panel or atop a brick, if you wish to avoid silt accumulation in base. Attach pump securely to lid, side and/or bottom panel with wire strapping to insure smooth operation of the cut-off float by avoiding chance of tipping over.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: It is your obligation to determine whether this product is suitable for the intended use and particular application.   Consult your building officials to insure compliance with all building codes and requirements.   These step-by-step instructions provided reflect mechanical assembly only.   Additional information may be necessary to insure proper results for all applications.   Consult with professionals to determine special soil conditions and structural requirements.

In populated areas, storm water regulations often apply to any project disturbing more than an acre of Earth. Construction site runoff sediment control can be addressed with drywells, as pictured above. Storm water is directed through a series of drywells for construction site sediment containment (erosion control). Discharge is effectively cleaned/filtered of larger particles before entering the street, thus protecting local storm sewers, ditches and gutters.

2 foot diameter, 2 foot tall, with a 4-3/4 inch lid Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid,  coupler, riser, and surface vent grate,  sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid,  geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell .
Well, that alI I’ve got for you folks on this subject, I hope some of you found it of some value. To create a sustainable living lifestyle can be a little challenging, especially these days when money is tight  for nearly everyone. Trying to save a little extra for a holiday trip is even more challenging. Putting money aside for home projects often takes a back seat to pleasure. I get it. But for long term thinkers, spending a little now, and it doesn’t have to be  a lot either ,can put enough money on your savings for that holiday or special something fairly quickly. Learning to build your own solar panels and installing them yourself is cheap and easy and fun to build. Having your own home solar system can save thousands of dollars a years and hundreds each month on utility bills with a very low cost investment. A home solar power or  wind power generator installed on your home give you more freedom and cash to spend on pleasures you do enjoy! Click the link now to explore the possibilities of owning your own renewable energy system today.

When leaching roof gutter water, always vent the downspout to insure against backup/burping. In practice, this amounts to not sealing around where the rectangular gutter enters the four inch drain pipe. For occassional foot traffic, the free surface vent grate supplied with $169 kit is adequate. In high traffic areas, the optional surface drain may be added. Either allows overflow of excess water and serves as an inspection & cleaning port.

Surface drain can be placed directly into the lid or a pipe can be run from the drain to drywell. Divert driveway and yard water runoff away from foundation to prevent leaky basements.

FOR USE AS A SUMP PIT Knock out all of the 1-1/4 inch holes in all three side panels to ensure adequate percolation into drywell. Assemble the drywell first and then lower the optional bottom panel in place as marked This Side Up. Do not remove port holes in the bottom panel (base). Wrap landscaping fabric around the drywell to prevent soil from entering the drain holes and secure with duct tape. We suggest not screwing lid to drywell body when installing a pump.

Fun projects are never hard to come by if your the handy type.

Easy to learn and accomplish projects however, are another story. many of use still have a job and because of the economy, perhaps we are even working a little harder these days,but we still like our fun and for some of us that fun could be productive. n my view , saving money anyway I can is very productive, as it allows more money to be spent on me….ooops did I just say that? I mean  for fun things, like,  ha hum,  camping, fishing  OR a beach holiday!  You get the idea, I’m sure. Reducing your $200.00 or $400 to $500.00 per month utility bill would go along way to any of those goals. Learning to build your own solar panels to accomplish that and live off your own home solar power is fun and helps you with a sustainable living balance in life. Home solar systems are the rage today as many people are looking to reduce their monthly expenses. Click the link and learn more about solar or wind power generators and how simple they are to build and install.

Understand that vehicular traffic atop drywell lid should be avoided and is not warranted by manufacturer. When a leaching pit is placed where vehicles may occasionally pass near, you should always consult a local soil engineer. Rock fill, poorly percolating soil, ground water and/or saturation of perimeter with runoff may dictate an advanced engineering approach we can not supply you with. The minimal approach taken by engineers is to require a reinforced concrete base/pad under the drywell bottom panel and a 4 inch diameter Sch40 riser pipe from base to bottom of lid (vertical loading as per image above). In worst case scenarios, you might see engineeers add a reinforced concrete pad atop too. When stacking drywells, order the set of three side panels and assemble with the full kit of three panels and lid. Stabilize the stacked drywells with several half inch screws at each level and then lower the entire stack into the hole at one time. Backfill evenly to avoid tipping the stacked drywells.

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Backfill evenly around the drywell with soil or gravel, raising the level in stages to avoid tipping the unit. The drywell may be surrounded with stone if desired to increase leaching capacity, but do not fill the inside of drywell with stone. It is typical to use 1-1/2 inch diameter crushed gravel for a leaching pit, but anything down to about 3/4 inch will work. Do not use small “pea” gravel and avoid smooth river rock whenever possible.

Bury the drywell at least well all the way up to finish grade. Exposed gravel will allow the leaching pit to get rid of water through evaporation in additional to percolation. These drawings do not highlight like the installation diagrams at top of page, but always vent your leach pit for best performance and soil health.

This is a great project for those of you just outside the city limits or for your vacation homes. It can be adaptable  as well for those homes with in the city limits how have less yard or lawn and gardens. Other projects for home improvement and building on a sustainable life style, while reducing your share of the carbon footprint AND saving money in a big way is to explore the possibility of a renewable energy system. Learning to build your own solar panels to replace your utility with the use of home solar power is easier than you think and fun too!  it doesn’t take much time at all to build one solar panel and build your home solar systems over time as you can afford it. Adding a wind power generator only caps off a great project and give you a complete all season system. Click this link to find out more on wind power generators and home solar power systems.

INSTALLATION AS A DRYWELL

Knock out or cut out the 1 inch ports to allow water to drain out. Hit the “X” marks on the inside of each panel with a small hammer. Rest the outside of the drywell atop a 2 by 4 laid close to the hole being removed. As you might guess, this is a great time to have a bored 10 year old handy. Knock out 4 inch port in top lid and side panels as needed for pipe connections.

If you are NOT planning to fill under and around with gravel, wrap landscaping fabric around the drywell  to prevent soil from entering the drain holes and secure in place with duct tape. When back filling with gravel, install landscaping fabric above gravel layer (as per sketches at top of page).

Looking for the perfect project to do around the home? Have  a little time on your hands but not a lot of time?  Need a project that is easy enough and yet cheap enough  to accomplish your goals? Wanting to SAVE money while having some fun? Well, if the project in this article is a little too much  or not needed for your home, then check out a renewable energy system for your home. For all your home solar power requirements, you can learn to build your won solar panels and install them quickly and easily and I have found out it’s  a  rather fun  3-4 day project! Create a sustainable living environment by building your own home solar systems and reduce or even replace that monthly electricity bill once and for all! For those of you less sunny climates adding a small wind power generator will complete your homes energy requirements. Click this link for more information on home solar systems.

As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.   Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, simply pouring a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field.   Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil.   “How to fix a leach field” is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though.   You have to examine why it failed in the first place.   The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field.   Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time.   Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair.   An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits.   These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent.   Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the serviceable life expectancy.   A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you can not have too large of a leaching pit – the more gravel the better.   As with all of our products, we’ll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!

drywell kits can be stacked for additional surge capacity

Please note two critical design errors in the system sketch shown above. Never install bends before the septic tank (they clog) and always install a cleanout, just in case the line does clog. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent flows downhill 1/8 inch minimum drop per foot to the leach field.

drywell installation suggestions, tips and hints …

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Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure – no fresh air in the pipes. Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer. This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time. If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat. Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first. Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line. Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines. Do not use this hole for your drywell location … the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil. Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour a 55 gallon drum of hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines. Put the lines under pressure for a few minutes, if possible. Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours, if not overnight) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect. The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture. Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore. If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later. Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen. Wear disposable protective clothes, head/skin/face coverings, gloves, and goggles … and pay attention. Due to motor freight costs, we do not retail industrial strength hydrogen peroxide, but it is readily available from your local pool cleaning or chemical supply store.

There are many things to consider when contemplating a sustainable life style. Implementing renewable energy systems on your home is definitely one to consider. Learning to build your own solar panels and installing them yourself is such an economical way to replace your utility companies monopoly on your monthly income.  Replacing your home solar power with your own home solar system is safe, fun and relatively easy to accomplish. The kits availalble through this web site, vary for sure, but they all provide great guides in video format and diagrams taking your through each step. Add a wind power generator as well for those of your in less sunny climes and you’ll be good to go!  Click the link today explore the site a see the options on renewable energy systems and it’s advantages yourself!

Drywell kits repairing failed septic system leaching field

Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field. If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.   Please dont believe those ads for “all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures” – at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.   Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that – schemes to take your money.   If you want to “revitalize” your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide.   Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.   Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).   Note that 35% strength and above is considered a hazardous material (HazMat) by HomeLand security.   So be sure to post a placard in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength; or better yet, have the store deliver for you.   And keep in mind that a 55 gallon drum is going to weigh about 450 pounds, so plan ahead for delivery … at least you can roll a barrel.

You always hire a professional to flush the lines FIRST (power jetting) prior to adding hydrogen peroxide. They locate cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose down through perforated field pipe, flushing the accumulated bio-mat OUT of the leach field. Lacking the proper power jetting head for four inch pipe, you can do a passable job with a Fire Hose equipped with disruptor (shower) head. The strainer fitting used for end of hose when pulling water out (like a well) is commonly used to create spray around the full circle inside pipe. If you get stuck trying to do the job with a spigot and garden hose, always increase the water pressure with an in-line booster pump.

In this economy, everyone is looking for ways to save a little money. Implementing simple yet effective features on or around your home is one sure fire way to save costs on monthly utility bills. Projects like the one above can save a lot of money on your city water bills by not having to buy city water to water your garden, lawns or trees etc. You also use less resources thereby helping to reduce the carbon footprint used by the large energy & purification plants etc. Other ways  to save money is to install a home solar system or even a wind power generator. Learning to build your own solar panels can save you further financial resources from buying pre made and you can have fun building them in a short weekend. You’ll also save money on your monthly energy costs, how much, depends on how completely you have replaced your power grid with your own home solar power. Having your own renewable energy system will give you the freedom of being locked into large corporate utility bills but also help you to create a sustainable living lifestyle that will be valuable in the near future. to learn more about sustainable living, click the link highlighted.

Drywell kits repairing failed septic system leaching field

Drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field. If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.   Please don’t believe those ads for “all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures” – at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.   Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that – schemes to take your money.   If you want to “revitalize” your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide.   Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.   Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).   Note that 35% strength and above is considered a hazardous material (HazMat) by Home Land security.   So be sure to post a placard in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength; or better yet, have the store deliver for you.   And keep in mind that a 55 gallon drum is going to weigh about 450 pounds, so plan ahead for delivery … at least you can roll a barrel.

You always hire a professional to flush the lines FIRST (power jetting) prior to adding hydrogen peroxide. They locate cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose down through perforated field pipe, flushing the accumulated bio-mat OUT of the leach field. Lacking the proper power jetting head for four inch pipe, you can do a passable job with a Fire Hose equipped with disruptor (shower) head. The strainer fitting used for end of hose when pulling water out (like a well) is commonly used to create spray around the full circle inside pipe. If you get stuck trying to do the job with a spigot and garden hose, always increase the water pressure with an in-line booster pump

This project is one way to save money and reduce the carbon footprint some. There are other great projects as well, such as building a home solar system for your own home solar power to replace your homes energy grid and find independence from the utility company. Saving money is an all American endeavor and learning to build your own solar panels fits that philosophy. Having your own renewable energy system creates a bit of freedom in the sense that you can turn the heat up in winter or the air conditioner up in summer and NOT worry about those sky rocketing  energy bills from your energy provider. You help with the Green and sustainable living  code for today’s environmental concerns and by having your own renewable energy system you not without energy during a shortage or power break down. Click the link and look for the many other projects that are availalble to make your home a more comfortable place.

SIZING A LEACH PIT and CALCULATING NUMBER OF DRYWELLS

Residential home sewage system (septic) leach fields, roof gutter runoff, driveway and yard drainage are common applications for drywells. It is not necessary to have multiple drywells, just larger holes (leach pit) filled with more gravel (3/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch crushed aggregate size is the norm).   You can not have too large of a leaching pit when disposing of large amounts of water. It is always wise to install at least two drywells in series, as per the sketch above.   This arrangement allows the first drywell to act as a settling basin for dirt, leaves, and other particulates, ensuring a long lasting system by keeping the second drywell free of debris.   Units can be stacked to increase the amount of surge potential for storm or sewage water disposal.   The “capacity” of a drywell system is only limited by the size of the gravel filled hole you put it in (leaching pit).   The drywell itself is about fifty gallons dry (surge potential), but this quickly disperses into the surrounding leach pit.   Your local building department sets the equations (code) used to determine leach pit size for septic systems and yard drainage.   A rule of thumb in well percolating soil is about 200 gallons per day, every day, with 1 foot of gravel under and around it.   With gutter and downspout disposal, a two inch rainfall is the standard normally used, but that will naturally vary with local weather patterns.   Two inches of rain equates to 1.25 gallons per square foot of roof surface area (1 gallon being 231 cubic inches, 1 cubic foot (1728 cubic inches) being 7.48 gallons).   A 1000 square foot roof, generating about 1250 gallons of water in a two inch rainfall, would, as a very general rule of thumb, require a gravel filled hole (leaching pit) large enough to hold that amount of water when empty.   Certainly knowing the actual percolation rate of the soil is the only way of being certain, but a 4′ by 4′ by 12′ long leach pit can be estimated to disperse about 1250 gallons of rainwater in most soils.   A hole this size could use at least 100 gallons of surge (2 drywells) – more in slower percolating soils where you may wish to stack them, as pictured below.
There are many projects one can get involved in if your that handy person kind. Weather your motive is saving money, or experiencing an exciting project or just something to do to relieve the boredom ( can’t imagine) then this web site might be interesting for you. Mind you it all about being green, but shouldn’t we all be a little conscious of that anyway? Learning to develop and sustainable living lifestyle consciousness isn’t that difficult as  many of these projects are designed to SAVE you money. Developing your own renewable energy system can be fun and rewarding. Learning to build your own solar panels is easy with the right instructions and methods that are being taught.  Going with a home solar power system or even a wind power generator, just make a lot of sense in today’s economy. Keep busy and save money, what more could a person ask for?  Click the link and have fun!