This entry was posted on Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 at 5:56 pm and is filed under Gray Water diverters, Home Energy, Renewable Energy, Sustainable Living. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.
As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, simply pouring a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field. Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil. “How to fix a leach field” is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though. You have to examine why it failed in the first place. The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field. Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time. Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair. An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits. These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent. Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the serviceable life expectancy. A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you can not have too large of a leaching pit – the more gravel the better. As with all of our products, we’ll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
drywell kits can be stacked for additional surge capacity
Please note two critical design errors in the system sketch shown above. Never install bends before the septic tank (they clog) and always install a cleanout, just in case the line does clog. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent flows downhill 1/8 inch minimum drop per foot to the leach field.
drywell installation suggestions, tips and hints …
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